Vatican 3

Having avoided the rampant Japanese, we were about to be thrown out by one of the 'heavies' when we mentioned that we'd come to hear mass. Instant change in attitude. We were let into the front part of the church, issued with elaborate mass books, and ended up about 20 rows from the Pope and the main altar.

We were so close we could even smell the incense.

One of the Swiss guards, who stood unmoving for the full two-hour service, was about 12 years old (or that's what he looked like)

The rows and rows of mitres in front of us had dozens of African bishops under them.